Pontocho Maiko : Spring 2008

Kyoto Rewind : April 6, 2008


Ichiemi, now a high ranking maiko in the Pontocho district, greets the mistress of a teahouse during a small cherry blossom festival along the Takase Canal.


Ichiemi looks every bit the stylish, sophisticated young woman in this stunning lavender kimono ensemble. Even her adorably child-like cheeks have thinned out.


Ichiharu


The long, fluttering strands cherry blossoms hanging from Shinaju's hanakanzashi, or flowered hair ornament, testify to her low rank and inexperience as a maiko, appealing instead to her youth and child-like charm. Compare it with Ichiharu's above, who is of a slightly higher rank.

Hisano, now a geiko, and Ichiemi walk beneath the lacey veil of cherry blossoms along the Takase canal as sunlight falls in playful patterns along the pavement.

As if Ichiemi's lavendar kimono wasn't enough. Coupled with this remarkable pastel obi, colored with the sweet, pastel pallet of spring, this ensemble quickly became my favorite this season.

The 59th Kyo Odori 2008

The maiko Satonami performs in the opening scene with the geiko Chiyoe and Kanachisa.

With the passing of a winter that was more severe than most, the now-greening mountains and perfumed winds seem particularly glorious. In this refreshing season graced by gentle spring sunlight, we are once again proud to present our annual Kyo Odori.

We would like to express our gratitude to all of you who found time in your busy schedules to attend today's performance, which begins with a song-accompanied dance performed by our charming geiko and maiko in a traditional Miyagawa-cho zashiki room. Then performance then goes on to portray in a poetic manner each of the four seasons in Kyoto, with the beauty of the scenes to be found on mountains and in plains depicted through evocative dance.

Much assiduous practice and rehersal has gone into this year's event. After having viewed the fruits of our labor, any comments that you might have on our performance would be greatly appreciated...

I hereby express, on behalf of everyone at the Miyagawa-cho Kabukai, the sincere hope that you enjoy the wonderful spectacle that is the 59th Kyo Odori.

(Excerpt from the Kyo Odori Program)

From left to right, maiko Kimiha, Satonami, and Miyoharu.


The maiko Satonami.


The maiko Tanewaka performs "A Brilliant Brocade of Chrysanthemums".


Kimiharu, little sister to one of Kyoto's most popular and beautiful maiko, Kimika.


Kikutsuru performs in Kyo Odori for the first time as a geiko after turning her collar in June of 2007.


In a scene from the Tale of Genji, the geiko Fumimari dances in Heian period robes as Ukifune.


The celebrated dancer Fumicho performs her solo, a constant in the Kyo Odori program.


The geiko Chizuru as an Edo period courtesean in "The Tale of Princess Takiyasha".

Maiko take center stage in a brilliant display of color, beauty, and grace during the Miyagawa-cho Ondo Song and Dance.

Finding the Philosopher's Path

Kyoto Rewind 2008: April 3, 2008

A view of the great gate of Nanzen-ji through a lacey veil of cherry blossoms. Nanzen-ji, or the Southern Mountain Temple, is thought to be the most famous and important Zen temple in the world.

Located just outside of Heian Shrine, Okazaki Canal connects the Lake Biwa Canal network with the Kamo River.

A ride on a the canal is a great way to view the cherry blossoms.

Walking the streets of Kyoto, somewhere in between the grounds of Nanzen-ji and the Philosopher's Path.

This stoney, sakura-lined path leads to the gate of a private residence we stumbled upon as we wandered towards the Philosopher's Path.

The entire estate was well hidden, surrounded by a wall offering only a glimpse of gardeners grooming the highest branches of the pine trees, shaded by magnificent clouds of cherry blossoms.

Peaking over the low hedges encircling the entrance.

Bamboo blinds and cherry blossoms provide shade and shelter.

The philosopher himself!

Absolutely one of the best places for hanami I've experienced so far. Highly recommended!

A young girl in kimono smiles beneath the canopy of blossoms covering the path.

A couple admires the blossoms.

The palette of spring paints the Philosopher's Path is subtle shades of pink, green and yellow. Light filters through the intricate lace of cherry blossoms, falling like the brush strokes of an impressionist masterpiece. Is it really any wonder I love Kyoto?

Tōdaiji and the Great Buddha of Nara

Spring Rewind: March 31, 2008


More tricksy deer work the crowded approach to Todaiji's great gate. Watch out girls, they bite!


A young boy shares his shika senbei with one of many sacred deer lounging along the tourist-infested main approach to the temple.


An artist sketches one of two nio, or "benevolent kings", enshrined in Todaiji's main gate, which is named after them (the nio-mon). Nio gaurd the entrance to most Buddhist temples in Japan in pairs, one with it's mouth open, the other, closed. Together, they represent Alpha and Omega, birth and death, the begining and the end. Created in 1203 AD, Nara's nio are the most famous in all of Japan, standing 26 feet tall.

Tourists stop for a sakura-framed souvenier photograph along the corridor leading to the temple's thoroughfare.

Todaiji towers over visitors, dwarfing everything in sight. Certified as a UNESCO World Heritage site, Todaiji is one of Japan's most famous and historically significant temples. Despite the fact that the present reconstruction of the building, undertaken in 1692, is only two-thirds of the original size, Todaiji remains the largest wooden structure on earth, housing the world's largest cast iron Buddha at 57 meters wide, 50 meters deep, and 48 meters tall.

Sakura, silhouettes and stormy skies surround the home of Daibutsu-san, the Great Buddha of Nara. When the original construction had concluded in in 798, it was recorded that 50,000 carpenters, 370,000 metal workers, and 2.18 million laborers worked on its construction and furnishings, nearly bringing the nation to the brink of bankruptcy.


The Great Buddha of Nara is the world's largest cast iron Buddha, sitting at a staggering 14.98 meters and weighing 500 metric tonnes.


Framed by the temple's decorative woodwork and massive timber pillars.


The Great Buddha's left hand raised in the abhaya mudra, imparting fearlessness and reassurance.


Another temple gaudian, in full battle gear, glares ominously down at visitors.


A couple joins the crowd in snapping a few shots on their cell phones.


Like the buddha, this boddhisatva's left hand mudra offers reassurance. It's right hand depicts the Varada mudra, lowered with the palm facing outward, the gesture of bestowing blessings or of giving charity.

The "En" in Nara : 縁

Spring Rewind: March 31, 2008


Abbey and I beneath the weeping cherries and watchful eye of Himuro Shrine's Shishi. A shishi, which can be translated as "lion", often refers to a mythical creature with magical power to repel evil spirits..

Abbey's first day in Kyoto had been gray and rainy, but the next morning found us seated outside Starbucks, one of the many guilty pleasure we indulge in outside of Ena, enjoying sunshine mixed soy chai. As usual, we weren't exactly sure where the day would lead us, but since we were so close to the station, I suggested we head for Nara. Abbey had never been there, and in the interest of packing as much Kansai punch into her three day Kyoto foray as possible, she agreed.

A family struggles to satisfy the impatient hunger of Nara's tourist-chasing deer.

Within an hour we were walking the deer-infested streets of Nara, dodging their senbei-sniffing noses and side-stepping the plentiful pellets of deer droppings splattered on the surface of the sidewalk. One thing you'll never find in Japan is the desperate hordes of destitute, poverty-stricken children or tourist dependent adults begging and badgering you for money. Instead, they have sacred deer, free from harm, free to roam, and free from the burden of finding food for themselves. Tourists excitedly buy shika senbei, or deer rice crackers, to feed to the ravenous hordes.

Once the deer started to surround me, I made a break for it, hoping to escape unscathed.

I have been to Nara at least five times, but I had never tried or wanted to try feeding those freakin' deer. I knew better. But during my last trip to Japan, I was persuaded by a friend to give it a try. "It's not like they bite!" He laughed at my feigned excitement. Little did he know...

That's me getting attacked from both ends. The deer in front over-bit, planting a lovely slop of saliva on my fingers, while his buddy bit my bum from behind. I may look like I was pleasantly suprised, but I assure you that it felt anything but pleasant.

It's a hold up! Having unloaded all of his shika sembei on an unsuspecting victim (me), my friend escaped unscathed instead. To tell the truth, I'm suprised. Those deer don't look particularly pleased.


Elementary school children try to capture the craziness of Nara's infamous deer with their ketai, or cell phone, camera.


The five story pagoda of Kofukuji.

As we wandered through public parks and temple grounds, absent-mindedly admiring the anceint architecture and ethereal cherry blossoms, we stumbled upon a young American man traveling with his father who had seen us in Starbucks the day before. An exchange student spending a gap year studying in a Japanese High School, he had recognized me from my blog (something that, strangely enough, only happens in Kyoto). Before they knew it, we had high-jacked their peaceful father-son afternoon, insisting that they join us for our slow and study trek in the general direction of Todaiji, the Great Eastern Temple.

The great weeping cherry shading Himuro Shrine's gate.

Along the way we noticed a modest shrine on the main road overflowing with cherry blossoms in full bloom. They spilled over the brilliant tangerine torii, or spiritual gate, covering the graveled pathway like Anne's White Way of Delight. Sunshine spilled like watery jewels, dripping through the leaves, filtered by the velvety petals into clouds of playful light.

Our new friends flooded in sakura-filtered sunlight. (Snaps to Abbey for the shot).


Towering tendrils of blossom-burdened branches tumbling down....

Unfortunately, most shrines are not barrier-free.

More about Todaiji tomorrow....